Chuzenji

ESPC, Then and Now 5 Nikko (area) 3

Our final destination for the day’s touring was Chuzenji.  Chuzenji is the name of a temple on the shore of a lake that also bears its name.  We arrived late in the afternoon of a cold, late April day.  The lake sits well above sea level, in the mountains and is much cooler than down on the Kanto plain.  Thus, it was a summer retreat area for Western Ambassadors.  At least two of their villas still remain in the area.  At the end of a mostly deserted street with most of the souvenir shops closed stands the simple yet magnificent vermillion gate and walls of Chuzenji Temple.  Through a fresh coat of paint wouldn’t do her any harm, the grand ole lady’s elegance cannot be disputed.

Of all the places I have been, Chuzenji maintains a special, magical place in my heart and memory.  The shores of the lake it lends its name to is to this day undeveloped except for its eastern shore.  Not many places I have been in Japan where I can look across a body of water and see no habitation, factory nor even power lines.  Lake Chuzenji offers such a view.  With the beautiful temple in the foreground, sublime is the beauty.

From The Erich Sonntag Postcard Collection (ESPC) In Japanese, the caption reads right to left; Nikko Chuzenji Ojiri Bridge. These are the same mountains in my photo directly above the postcard.

As we explored the precincts of the temple a heavenly scent introduced itself to my senses.  Thankfully, I had the sense to inquire about it and was able to purchase the temple’s own incense.   Though it would be a while until I would think to start to collect incense from temples in Japan, for reasons I know not myself, I was in 7th heaven being able to bring this fine scent to my home.  It remains one of my favorites. A fax order form came inside the box.

At the beginning of the panic, I found myself running low on this wonderfully unique scent. Using the fax order form, I ordered more.

This is NOT evidence of the nonexistent high inflation some say Japan is going through. Box on the left purchased in 2011, that on the right via fax in 2020 or 2021; both cast ¥1,000. Shrinkflation, but not inflation. Sometime in 2023 I received a letter from the temple that the price is now ¥1,500 per box. But that too is not high inflation.

The photos I took of the temple and the views from it are among my all time favorites.  I must suspect, though, that their magic which works upon myself is in a large part due to the memories they unlock when I view them and that they, as likely as not, will not be as special to you as I have hyped them up to be.  To borrow a line from a sea song and use it to goad you to go there to experience the magic for yourself, “If anyone doubts this yarn is true, let him go there himself one day”.

Chuzenji 中禅寺

A demon forced to hold a stone lantern for eternity.

Below, views of Chuzenji Lake.

I have see photos of the same scene from a century ago with a fisherman standing at the same or nearly same spot attired in the clothing of that period. Sadly, I was unable to track it down for this post.

View of Chuzenji from near the lake.